![]() ![]() If you don't use a greenhouse or cold frame to harden off your plants but rather outside, you can follow this suggested schedule:ĭay 1: 4 hours in the shade outdoors when the temperature is 40 degrees or above in an area that is shady and sheltered from the wind, and then bring plants back inside.ĭay 2-3: 1- 2 hours in the sun and 3-4 hours in the shade outdoors, and then bring plants back inside for the night.ĭay 4-5: 3 hours in the sun and 4-5 hours in the shade outdoors, and then bring plants back inside for the night.ĭay 6-7: 4 hours in the sun and 5-6 hours in the shade outdoors, and then bring plants back inside for the night.ĭay 8-9: 5 - 6 hours in the sun and 6-7 hours in the shade, and then bring plants back inside for the night.ĭay 10: 6 - 7 hours in the sun and the remainder of the day in the shade. Remember to monitor the weather forecast, especially initially, and keep plants indoors if strong storms or low temperatures are expected. The main aim of hardening off is to gradually increase the time outside and light intensity each day to make the plants used to outdoor conditions. If you have no intermediate home available, move your plants between a shady, sheltered spot outside in the garden and your garage or home. Hardening off should take between a week and sometimes up to two weeks, depending on the weather and plant variety.Īn unheated greenhouse or cold frame is great for hardening off as these have windows or doors that can be gradually opened with time and closed at night or during cold spells. It is also a good guideline for zones 6 and 8. This Spring Planting Guide provides guidance for when some popular crops can be planted outdoors for zone 7 (where we live). ![]() Back up two weeks from the planned planting date - that's when you'll need to start hardening off. It also helps to know when your last frost date is expected. It is best to start hardening off about one to two weeks before the final frost date for your area and when the weather is more favorable.ĭetermine when you need to transplant your plants in the garden by referring to the seed package instructions on planting times and outdoor conditions. ![]() Trust me, I have learned this lesson the hard way! Your plants will thank you, you'll be happier with the results, and you wouldn't waste money by losing expensive plants. Hardening off your plants may seem like a tedious and time-consuming process, but it is actually easy and worth the effort. Hardening off will prevent shock that could set back or halt the plant's growth, prevent sunburn (scalding), and help your seedlings or young plants grow into healthy, vigorous adult plants. By gradually exposing them to the outside elements, they build up their defenses and have time to adapt to the new environment. Plants have a protective waxy coat on their leaves that helps to repel water, reduces the rate of dehydration, and protects them against harmful ultraviolet light.īut when seedlings have been grown indoors, they haven't fully developed this waxy coat. It's like having to go out during a cold winter's evening when you've been snuggling up under your favorite blanket in front of the fireplace. Causing distress to the plants or even killing them. When the plants are used to these pleasant and cozy conditions, moving them outside without any warning or weaning can cause transplant shock. They are also not much affected by wind, rain, and extreme temperature changes such as frost. Seedlings started indoors, whether in a greenhouse, on your windowsill, or under a grow light, are grown in the ideal conditions where you control the temperatures, the light, and moisture levels. By hardening off, you slowly expose your vegetables, fruits, and flowers to the outside elements to ensure their survival. ![]() Hardening off or acclimating is vital for gradually adjusting your seedlings to the outdoors when you are ready to transplant them. ![]()
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